Fennel &
citrus cured salmon with crispy skin
24 hours I Serves 4
​​​Full-flavoured, buttery, earthy: salmon is the perfect vessel for an aromatic cure. Its fatty flesh retains a soft, slightly chewy texture once salted, without losing the mild meatiness that makes salmon so irresistable. The subtle sweetness of the fish itself is amplified by the orange and sugar of the cure, yet cut through by the sharp floweriness of lime that subdues the fish’s oiliness, allowing each bite to sigh and swoon against your tongue in floral ecstasy. Dill and fennel compliment each other in a profound way; they are a complexly herbaceous pairing backed by scientific conjunction, as dill and fennel share the flavour compound coumarin. Both pert and aggressively present in any dish that they’re in, eating them together is like a cold splash of water to the face on an early winter’s morning. Both make for a beautiful garnish. Both share an undeniable affinity for salmon. It’s a no brainer. I’ve chosen to use a splash of sweet vermouth, but a brightly aniseed-y Pernod to echo the fennel wouldn’t go amiss here, or else a splash of dry white wine, or you could omit the alcohol altogether.
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Serving suggestion: with a soaking wet martini with a twist.
Ingredients
300g salmon fillet
1 whole orange
1 whole lime
25g bunch of dill
1/2 bulb fennel
50ml vermouth
​180g coarse salt, plus extra for skin
120g caster sugar, plus extra for skin
3 tbsp fennel (or coriander) seeds
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Notes
When choosing salmon, provenance is key. Avoid anything labelled as 'wild Atlantic' salmon, as these fish are catastrophically endangered. Always choose the most sustainable option available to you, such as a wild-caught pacific species like sockeye or keta. Don't skimp on quality.
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You can leave the salmon fillet and skin uncovered for 8 hours in the fridge after rinsing to really dry out before plating.
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Garnishes are something I take very seriously. Dill is always beautiful on a plate like this, and I am a staunch believer in decorating a dish's exterior with what's in its interior. I've chosen candy beetroot because not only is it an aesthetic dream, but it encourages the earthy flavour of salmon perfectly. Feel free to add a roughly chopped beetroot to your food processor to bring a root-like flavour and vibrant colour to your cure.
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tags: small plates mains in brine, pickled, fermented dinner
Method
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Use a sharp knife to remove the skin from your salmon. Set aside.
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In a food processor, add roughly chopped orange and lime (skin and all), fennel, dill and vermouth. Blitz into a paste. Stir through fennel seeds, 180g salt and 120g sugar until well combined.
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Roll a layer of clingfilm over your work station and add about 1/3 of your mixture in an even layer. Lay your salmon fillet on top and cover with the rest of your cure. Wrap tightly.
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To a small container, add equal parts salt and sugar and place your salmon skin inside, making sure it's covered.
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Place your fillet and skin in the fridge for at least 24 hours. The longer you leave it, the stronger the taste and the firmer the texture.
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Remove from fridge and rinse both under cold water. Pat dry.
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For the crispy skin, add 1-2 inches of a high heat oil of your choice to a pan suitable for frying, I use coconut or avocado here.
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Make sure the skin is dry as bone, slice into 1cm wide strips, and when your oil is hot enough, drop a couple of pieces in at a time.
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Working quickly to ensure they don't burn, flip over, and when golden brown, remove from oil and dry on a kitchen-towel-lined plate. The salt of the cure should have removed any excess moisture and ensured a crispier fry, as well as eliminating the need to season after frying.
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Now, plate. Finely slice your salmon and arrange on a plate. I like to garnish with slices of citrus flesh, candy beetroot, more dill, radish, soft shoots or edible flowers, and finally with the strips of crispy salmon skin.